USA 2018 (14) Wolves!

Tags

American dipper, American magpie, American raven, Bald eagle, Bison, bison fur, Bozeman, coyote, Gardiner, geological dyke, Greater Yellowstone ecosystem, ice jam, Liberty Cap Mammoth, Mammoth Hot Springs, moose, Pronghorn, Roosevelt Arch, Tinker's Hill, Tinker's Hill Cemetery, travertine terrace, Wapiti Lake wolf pack, wolf, wolf reintroduction, Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park, |National Museum of Wildlife Art

USA 2018 (14), Wolves!  Yes, on this last day of our Yellowstone ‘safari’, we did see wolves.  It was slightly less cold (about minus 23ºC/minus 9ºF) as we left Cooke City on Wednesday 22nd February, making an even earlier start, at 6.30 a.m.

The last wolf pack in Yellowstone Park was killed in the 1920s.  On 12th January 1995 the first wolves for decades were released here, and, by the end of 1996, 31 of them had been relocated from Canada to the park.  They and their descendants have changed the ecosystem, with an enormously beneficial effect on fauna and flora, there now being a top predator where there was none for decades, rebalancing nature.  Here is a 4’34” video on how. (Another, on a wild wolf playing with domestic dogs, shows just how huge the wolf is.) [Three weeks later. There’s a snippet in March’s ‘BBC Wildlife Magazine about this phenomenon. ‘Predators don’t just eat prey animals, they scare the hell out of them, and this fear factor alone is enough to shape ecosystems. After wolves disappeared from Yellowstone National Park, elk were free to forage wherever their tastebuds led them, including into lush but risky riverbank habitats. This led to the devastation of specialist riparian vegetation. When wolves were reintroduced, the elk looked elsewhere and the riverbanks recovered.’]

Once more heading for Mammoth Hot Springs, our first stop was to watch a moose eating its favourite food, willow – recovered thanks to the wolves perhaps. I got interested in an American dipper (nothing like European ones) by a river and I walked back a few yards to take a closer look.  Imagine my astonishment on turning round after a few minutes, at seeing this! Of course any coyote likes an easy surface to walk on, and this one walked right on by me, and through my companions by the vehicles. We next stopped to observe a young bison’s carcase being recycled, about half a mile from where we were on the road.

All very symmetrical: American ravens to the left, a coyote on either side of the carcase, and American magpies to the right

By midday we had reached and gone through Mammoth, turning north to Tinker’s Hill, Gardiner, and the North Entrance to the NP.  This is the Roosevelt Arch, (1903).

On the other, entrance, side of the Arch, there is engraved, ‘For the benefit and enjoyment of the people’.

We were now technically out of the Park, but still well within the wider ecosystem of Yellowstone. I wandered around a little, while telescopes were being set up.

There are worse locations for a cemetery.

Tim encouraged me to feel this bison fur he had found an a fence.  It was so soft!

Whimsical landscape on Sprinter window

And I joined the others, patiently seeking a wolf pack known to hang out around here.

 

YES! Not with the naked eye, but with binoculars, cameras and ‘scopes. The Wapiti Lake pack I believe, itself inside the Park boundary.  About two miles away. (Just very occasionally – very occasionally – I wish I carried around one of those paparazzi cameras with enormously long lenses, instead of the small thing I wear slung around my neck.)

Here – really – they have moved to the further ridge and are lying down

There is even a black wolf or two there…

 

In due course they disappeared over the ridge.

”Turn around! Pronghorn!” We had seen a very graceful sculpture of a pronghorn at the National Museum of Wildlife Art at Jackson Hole.  Here were a whole crowd of them in the flesh. Such delicate creatures, not at all fazed by our presence. (They are sometimes called pronghorn antelope, but they are deer. Most photos slightly over-exposed.) It was back to Mammoth for lunch, and a look at the Lower Travertine Terraces. 

The extinct cone is known as the Liberty Cap, after the cap worn by colonial patriots in the Revolutionary War

 

Then we had a serious drive back north to Bozeman, where we were to catch our planes home the next day.  We stopped briefly at the Roosevelt Arch, but saw no wolves this time, but (apologies to those of a squeamish nature) I thought this bison poo there was really  artistic. It was too fast a drive for any real photography, though I did manage to get these bald eagles. We also saw white-tailed deer, and some bison, and I noticed a fabulous geological dyke.  Looking around at a comfort stop by the Yellowstone River, Drew told us that this was evidence that there had been an ice jam somewhere nearby. Approaching Bozeman I took a final picture of the mountains.

I think the form at the top of the mountain is a cirque.

It was minus 10ºC/plus 14ºF when we arrived at Bozeman.  The leaders commented that this had been the coldest trip they had ever known.

 

Most of my companions were going straight home.  I was to embark on the third and final part of my journey the following day – after a lie-in!

USA 2018 (13), Wolves?

Tags

American magpie, Bald eagle, BBC, BBC Wildlife magazine, Bighorn sheep, Bison, Cooke City, coyote, Don Hartman, elk, Golden eagle, Great grey owl, Jackson Hole, Lamar River, mountain goat, Natural Habitat, Raven, red fox, Rick McIntyre, Silver Gate, tracking wolves, Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park

USA 2018 (13), Wolves?  It was still dark – and minus 33ºC/minus 28ºF – when we set off at 7 a.m., to look seriously for wolves on this Tuesday morning, 20th February. After all, the name of the trip was ‘Yellowstone: Ultimate Wolf and Wildlife Safari’. We were essentially retracing the last part of our journey the day before, westwards from Cooke City, which is just outside the north-east corner of Yellowstone National Park, back along the Lamar valley, and then continuing parallel with the Yellowstone River westwards a little further. At our first stop, where we looked in vain for a wolf pack before the sun had even risen above the mountains, we saw water vapour rising from the creek, as if a hot sun were evaporating the water prior to a scorching hot day! But I was told it was case of thermal inversion. Our next stop, for ‘comfort’ purposes, was in yet another beautiful spot. Then we pulled up again, when we saw a group of photographer tourists parked and looking upwards – at four sleeping coyotes, of which here are two.

Female bighorn sheep. Unusually, the female of this species has horns, but this one is lacking one of them.

Female bighorn sheep encounters bison, with no untoward outcome

We arrived at the furthest point intended for the day, where there was a good chance, we were told, of seeing a given pack of wolves.  We met Lizzie, who spends much of her time tracking the animals. She passed round a collar which had been round a wolf’s neck, and that felt quite spooky to me. It was pretty heavy, and we were reminded that the wolf is a very large animal, though it’s difficult to realise when you see them from a distance – IF ever we should see them, from a distance or no. No luck this morning and we made our way back to Cooke City for lunch, quite slowly as we kept seeing interesting things and stopping.

The other two ‘sleeping’ coyotes

Icing sugar? Ice cream? Thick snow?

Bald eagle

Male bighorn sheep

Pawing the snow aside to reach the vegetation.  Despite appearances, it is the legs of the sheep which are vertical, not the camera crooked

Ravens eating carcase, antler and vertebrae visible

Coyote

There is a tiny cream-coloured smudge in this photo, three-quarters of the way from the left and about a third down, below and to the right of the second big tree in from the right.  It is at least two, perhaps three miles away, and is a mountain goat. Tim somehow spotted it for us.

Enlarging this photo further would just make the animal very blurry indeed.

Cooke City

The view from my room, not seen in the dark the night before or in the morning

Plans for the afternoon were to meet a wildlife cinematographer, and then to have an individual choice between: resting for a while, going snow-shoeing, or further wildlife searching. Most people seemed to be going to opt for the last, including me. But then all plans changed. Wolves had been seen, where we had been that morning. So we ‘rushed’ off there, as safely as we could, but even so it took about an hour. En route we saw…

Male Bighorn sheep, presumably the same we had seen before lunch

A red fox, the only one all week. (Just how do these animals survive?)

And more bison. So difficult not to take photos of them.

Arrived at the same spot as the morning, we met Rick McIntyre, who gave us a fascinating talk on the ecology of the animal. [PS, three weeks later. Rick is featured in a fascinating article on one of the Yellowstone wolves in the March  edition of ‘BBC Wildlife Magazine’.] But the wolves had gone. ‘Hang on, there they are!’ the cry rang out from one of the leaders (now three as Tim from Nat Hab had joined us.).  A very, very long way away.  I was not the only one not to see them, whether through binoculars, cameras, or telescopes.  Try, try and try, no, we just couldn’t.  Moreover, it was said they were disturbing elk and bison, which would have been even more fascinating to see.  But no, not many of us saw them. Not us amateurs anyway.  I took several photos of where we were meant to be looking, hoping to blow them up and at least see them on my screen.

Not here

 

But here, on maximum zoom

No such luck. ‘They’ve gone now’. We left the scene, and made our way back towards Cooke City.

Golden eagle and American magpie on carcase

Fleeting glimpse of an elk which had not made its way to the refuge at Jackson Hole, 100 miles or so to the south

However, we stopped at Silver Gate, just a short distance from Cooke City (not a city but more a large village, by the way).  Our stop there was to meet the very patient Don Hartman.  But then wildlife photographers are used to being patient.

I was especially thrilled to meet him. In post (5) of these USA 2018 posts, I mentioned that there had been a second BBC series on Yellowstone just before I left for the trip. Don Hartman had taken its amazing footage on the Great Grey Owl family through the seasons. He show us some of this footage, some more which didn’t make the cut, and other work of his, then answered many questions. What a surprise and privilege to meet him, and here he is.

It was dark as we left for another good meal in Cooke City.  But a little warmer (!) as we bade each other goodnight, minus 25ºC/minus 13ºF.

[My apologies for the changes of type, which I have no idea how to correct. Retyping has made no difference. Any advice from fellow WordPress bloggers would be gratefully received.]

USA 2018 (12), the beautiful day’s end

Tags

Bison, Cooke City, Gardiner, Mammoth Hot Springs, Natural Habitat, Travertine, travertine terrace, wolves, Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park

USA 2018 (12), the beautiful day’s end.  As we arrived in Mammoth Hot Springs, around 3.30,  we learned that contingency alternative accommodation had been reserved for us in Gardiner, but also that the authorities were hoping that the road to Cooke City would be cleared by 5.30.  So instead of continuing straight on with our journey, Jeremy took us on a visit that had been intended for a day or so later, while Drew stayed behind to do whatever had to be done.  This visit was to the Upper Travertine Terraces.  Where silica is the main mineral which separates out from the hot water in the Old Faithful area, at Mammoth it is limestone. (I did ask if the remains of a mammoth had been found in this area, but it seems the name comes from the size of the terraces.)  This was perhaps the only time in the whole of the trip where I might have preferred to have been there in warmer weather.  The extreme cold meant that the water vapour was so very extensive that it was difficult to get a full idea of the splendours. Our nevertheless lovely walk was a There-and-Back one.

From the start of our walk There

I kept finding myself a little behind the group as I stopped to take photos

When we were at the furthest extent of There, Jeremy had a call to say that the road to Cooke City was now clear, an hour earlier even than hoped. Great! We could continue on our way!

We start walking Back to the vehicles, in the shade, as the sun starts to disappear behind the mountains

In the course of this time in the Mammoth area we said goodbye to our faithful snow coaches, and reverted to Natural Habitat ‘ordinary’ Sprinters. On this last lap of the day, a further couple of hours’ driving, pretty well due east now, it was minus 23ºC/minus 9ºF.

 

Drew said there was a rule that drivers should do nothing to impede the intended paths of the wildlife, but that it was not always respected. Here it was the bison who moved over and decided to impede us!

 

And then it became too dark to take any more photos.

The last two days were to be spent concentrating on wolves…

USA 2018 (10), Mud pots and fumaroles

Tags

Bison, Bombadier, Fountain Paint Pot, fumarole, geyser, hot spring, hydrogen sulfide, hydrogen sulphide, Lower Geyser Basin, Madison Information Station, Mud pot, Old Faithful, red-breasted nuthatch, snow coach, Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park

USA 2018 (10), Mud pots and fumaroles. Our next stop for a walk in Yellowstone National Park, this Monday, 19th February, was at the Lower Geyser Basin.

Dead lodge pole pines, with petrified bases. They have absorbed the prevailing silica material through their roots, and ‘frozen’.

More evidence that bison like warm water

Here we learned more from Drew about hot springs, fumaroles, and mud pots, having already learned about geysers, such as Old Faithful. We saw for ourselves how vegetation and even small birds could thrive in well below freezing ambient temperatures. At 7.30 this morning, it had been minus 2º Fahrenheit, which sounds even colder in Celsius – minus 19º.  Photos can show the water vapour/steam – but not the rotten eggs smell of hydrogen sulphide, H2S, (“very poisonous, corrosive, and flammable” – Wikipedia) which invaded the nostrils from time to time, and had done the previous day also.

 

Red-breasted nuthatch, at the edge of the field of mud pots.

Regaining our yellow snowcoaches, we found one of those dark red Bombadiers, the precursors of the modern vehicles we were travelling in. Onwards and northwards.

Snowmobiles approaching, and in the distance, the northern edge of the most recent (640,000 years ago) Lava Creek caldera

 

This is my very favourite bison portrait

Not a human footprint in sight

After a short while we reached our next warming hut, Madison Information Station I think, where we took lunch (in the company of a load of snowmobilists) – and were visited by a coyote.

  I saw no-one give him/her anything to eat!

 

USA 2018 (9) Old Faithful!

Tags

Bison, Bombadier, Old Failthful, Old Faithful Snow Lodge, Snowmobile, Sprinter, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park

USA 2018 (9) Old Faithful! Monday 19th February was the very best day for me on the Yellowstone adventure, in terms of experiences. Masses of snow on the ground, none falling, Old Faithful, clear skies for much of the time, excellent wildlife sightings, and I had the privilege of being in the seat beside the driver all day. We were not due to leave until 10 a.m., but baggage had to be outside our rooms for collection by 7 a.m., so there was no chance of a lie-in.  I chose not to go out for a group walk at 8.00 a.m., so was able to enjoy a somewhat more leisurely breakfast than usual. I heard a rumour that Old Faithful was due to blow next at around 9.00.  (Formal predictions don’t start until a little later in the day.) I was planning to go out for a little walk on my own before departure, so my destination was clear.

Quietly steaming away

False alarm

Around 9.15, she did blow. I tried a couple of videos.

 

I’ve since read that the difference between the temperature of the emerging steam and that of the ambient atmosphere on a really cold day can be some 115 deg C/240 deg F.

I dawdled back to Snow Lodge.

A snow plough had cleared a broad path – the bank seen here came almost up to my waist.

We shortly set off in our Sprinter, a yellow one this time. (All our vehicles were Sprinters; they were just adapted for different road conditions.) Maximum speed allowed: 25 mph, but we were able to do considerably less for most of the time – all the better for enjoying the views.

The eye can disregard the smoked glass of the windscreen, the camera does not lie.

Bison enjoying the steam/water vapour – I am reminded of the picture at the Museum in Jackson Hole.

Snowmobiles and a Bombadier, the predecessor of our snowcoaches

Some had seen bison on their walk earlier in the morning.  I saw my first on this drive.

Some found their faces menacing.  I thought they were lovely and gentle – though it was safer to take these pictures through a wound-down window!  The animals were just feet away.

This video shows one of them using its strong neck muscles to shovel the snow out of the way with its muzzle to reach the vegetation.

 

It’s only 11.30. Such a full day still to come!

USA 2018 (6), Jackson Hole, afternoon.

Tags

Bison, Brown bear, Carl Rungius, cervus canadensis, cervus elaphus, Cougar, elk, Georges Gardet, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Tetons, Grizzly bear, Jackson Hole, Jackson Visitor Center, Landseer, moose, Mountian lion, Mule deer, National Elk Refuge, Nicola Hicks, Pronghorn, Puma, red deer, Robert F Kuhn, Shepard Alonzo Mount, Wapiti, wolf, |National Museum of Wildlife Art

USA 2018 (6), Jackson Hole, afternoon. After lunch in its restaurant, we had a guided tour, by a volunteer, of some of the exhibits at the National Museum of Wildlife Art. Not nearly long enough for many of us, but much better than nothing, a really beautiful museum.  There were sculptures and paintings, inside and outside. (Brrrrr – we had divested ourselves of outerwear!) Here are just a few that particularly caught my eye, with references where I noted them.

Moose (American), elk (English)

Mountain lion/puma/cougar

Brown/grizzly bear

Pronghorn deer

This dramatic picture of a bison coming out of the mist occupied a whole wall. I’m tempted to think that the mist is that of the thermal heat in Yellowstone which we were to see later.

Sir Edwin Landseer, ‘The Deer Pass’ 1852. who saw a sphinx in the mountain behind the deer.  But did he get the colour of the deer/elk right?

‘Long Island Frog’, 1860 by Shepard Alonzo Mount

‘Pas de Deux’, 1975 by Robert F Kuhn

‘Old Baldface’ c. 1935, by Carl Rungius. (Bears are in a kind of hibernation at this time of year, so we saw none.)

‘The Gangmaster’, c 1020, by Carl Rungius (German)

‘Combat des cerfs’, 1910, Georges Gardet (French)

(Hastily taken as we left) ‘Little Bear’, 2015, by Nicola Hicks, (British)

‘Midnight Serenade’, Robert F Kuhn

I don’t have details for this picture, but even when it was painted, Bison no longer roamed the plains in these numbers. The painting occupies a whole wall.

As we left the museum, a few of us saw some mule deer in the distance, so-called because of their huge round ears. Afterwards we were taken to a viewpoint of the Grand Teton Range, sadly, as so frequently, topped by cloud, so not seen in their full splendour. A panoramic view makes a straight road crooked, so here’s a brief video.

It just so happens that this interesting story on the geology of the Tetons, including a fabulous sunrise photo of them clear of clouds, appeared on Facebook yesterday.

Then it was on to the National Elk Refuge.  Elk/Wapiti (cervus canadensis) are closely related to our (European) red deer (cervus elaphus). They migrate northwards each year for the winter, and many come to this national refuge where they are safe from hunting.Had there been more snow we would have been taken to see them in horse-drawn sleighs.  As it was we went in horse-drawn carts.

Our horses

After a short time at the Jackson Visitor Center…

Mule deer seen from a viewing platform.  See the big ears.

… we returned to our hotel for a short rest, and then went to dinner at another Jackson restaurant.  Because I had arrived so late, I had no other chance to see anything of the town, as we were off the following morning northward for good.