Last boat outing – and an extra-ordinary finale!

Tags

anhinga, black vulture, boat-billed heron, Brazil, capybara, caracara, donacobius, great egret, Jabiru, jaguar, kiskadee, Naturetrek, Pantanal, ringed kingfisher, rufescent tiger heron, sunbittern

The word ‘amazing’ is vastly overused, but the end of our trip truly was.

Sunday afternoon, 27th September. With no inkling of what was to came at the end of the day we set off again in our two boats for a final gentle glide.  This time, there was no question of wanting to see things being fed or performing, indeed we went in the other direction.

Anhingas hanging themselves out to dry

Rufescent tiger heron

Caracara

There’s a snake in there…

I couldn’t help but admire the boatmen’s determination

though sometimes there were open stretches

People in the know got very excited about this: Sunbittern

Great egret

The whole trip I kept hearing this word ‘Donacobius’, on the lips of people who knew about birds. It had been ticked on the list every night in our review. On the last day, I not only saw one, but was able to take a photo of it. Black-capped of that ilk.

One of my favourites – not least because I could recognise it – the rufescent tiger heron, juvenile

The Ringed kingfisher is another that I learned to recognise

The heron reveals its eponymous boat-bill…

… but not its tail (not that it’s got much of one)

Massed water hyacinths

Another donacobius!

Very, very occasionally we saw something familiar

Kiskadee

Great egret

Juvenile Great Black-hawk

Black vulture

Jabiru stork – one from the nest at the lodge

Every day, late afternoon, hot, sticky, beginning to tire, we were treated to chilled drinks which had emerged from a cooler at the back of the boats.  I had discovered a local carbonated one I rather liked, guarana, so that was my choice every day.  (I’ve just looked it up.  No wonder I liked it:  it’s high in caffeine!)  Dave Allen video’d our ‘sundowner’ about half way through the trip. (In case you’re interested , I’m in a green and white check shirt, towards the left.)

Well after dark, we assembled for our final meal together – some of us were leaving at 5.00 am the following day.  Suddenly, one of the boatmen came rushing in. “Onça!” he cried, “Jaguar!”  We rushed out.  Staff soon had their incredibly strong lamps on the spot on the other side of the river, but it was still very difficult to see anything.

“It’s in the hyacinths”.

“Naturetrekkers*, go and get your binoculars”, advised our leader.  We did, and I was just back in time to see the large feline clamber out of the water and up the bank, and then head off into the undergrowth.  With something in its mouth. A capybara.

But George hadn’t fetched his binoculars: he had fetched his camera.  And this is what he managed to take, very low resolution image here, but unmistakeable. An amazing finale to a wonderful trip.

* I was travelling with the excellent wildlife tour company, Naturetrek.

Many thanks to Dave Allen and my French birder and computer friend (and friend friend) Bernard Liégeois with great help in removing question marks from bird pictures throughout this series, and again to Dave for permission to use his wonderful video clips.

Orange

Tags

caiman, cocoi heron, curassow, iguana, jaguar, kiskadee, orange-backed troupial, Pantanal

We saw many, many colourful birds in the Pantanal.  This, I think, was my very favourite.

Orange-backed troupial

I had a curious respect and admiration for this creature.

The Yacaré caiman is endemic to central South America

Somehow, the more colourful version is more appealing than the black, though I’m not sure that’s the right word.  Jaguars and anacondas like them whatever the colour – they eat them.

Truly attractive was the demonstration of synchronised drinking by Mr and Mrs Bare-faced curassow:

My bird book says ‘Song: low, hoarse, “e-ur” notes of pair, like grunting of domestic pigs.’

Iguana. They come in all shades of green, and sometimes lavender, black or even pink.

Cocoi heron

The walkie-talkies crackled, and we were off on one of our white-knuckle rides (I exaggerate a little, but the speedy rides were great fun!) to see an unknown jaguar found by one of the boatmen.

More screeching brakes, and our boat turned round!  Manuel’s eagle eyes had spotted a jaguar on the bank – and there were no other boats there.  Very satisfying, especially for the guides, that we were able to observe on our own for a while, before others – honour obliged Manuel – joined us.

It was Maxime again, we were told.  Just check those forehead markings!  Frustratingly, we had no idea where we were in respect to where we had seen him previously, a minor failing of the organisers to my mind. No matter, there we were, observing this beautiful creature once more.

Kiskadee. Some say it calls its name.

In due course, we went on to join others observing the original ‘unknown’ jaguar we had set off to see.  He (presumably it was a he) remained unknown, for this is all we saw for the 30-40 minutes we stayed there.  Definitely the least exciting of all our sightings!

But here is Dave Allen’s expert video of Maxime’s failed attempt to catch the capybara the other day.  You can hear the barking capybara at the end.

Thursday’s sunset.

Families: Giant river otters, capybaras…

Tags

anhinga, cacique, caiman, capybara, cocoi heron, curassow, giant river otter, jaguar, kiskadee, piping-guan, roseate spoonbill, sandpiper, skimmer, southern screamer, trogon

Boat excursions from the flotel were every day from 7.00 am until 11.00 am, and from 2.00 pm until 6.00 pm.  This is the view from my window at 6.15 am on Tuesday 22nd September.These Blue-throated piping-guans were there every morning under what we called the cormorant tree (explanation later), but not when we returned.To our utter delight, shortly after setting off today, we came across a family of giant river otters, to our right as we meandered along a wide river.  Ten or eleven individuals in all, including four cubs, which were often carried in the mouths of adults. After a while they decided to cross the river in front of us, in search of one of their holts.

We continued on our way, seeing birds (and other creatures) we recognised, some we hadn’t seen before, and some I’m not sure of.

Unicoloured blackbird, male (confirmed by BL)

Cocoi heron

Caiman

Not so sweet, this size

Collared plover (confirmed by BL)

Mr and Mrs Southern screamer

Semi-palmated sandpiper (ID thanks to BL)

Black skimmers in context

Anhinga

Mr and Mrs Bare-faced curassow

Lesser kiskadee

Blue-crowned trogon (female)

Yellow-rumped cacique (weaves its nest)

Roseate spoonbills

We were always pleased to see these, commonplace though they were.

Team capybara

Grampa?

And in due course we found ourselves, along with Peter and Bianca, in almost exactly the same spot we had all been the previous day.  This time we got much better views of the beautiful female, with her much finer features. How long could she stand that heat? I wondered, and in due course she did move back into the shade.  Peter thought this could be an invitation.

Bianca

Bianca

Hopeful Peter, Bianca turning back to him

As we could hear from her vocalisations, he was smartly rebuffed, and when we moved to go back to the flotel for lunch, they had resumed almost the same positions as before.