Madeira Revisited 4. A very different landscape on Friday. We were at the far eastern tail of the island, on the Sâo Lourenço peninsula, dry and arid and very windy. The usual pattern: a there and back walk, botanists behind, better walkers in front, me taking pictures of flowers and views, and many walkers of many nationalities. Lots of up and down, but not as much as the day before.
Unfortunately I was beaten after an hour or so. By the wind. Not having had full sensation in my feet for a couple of years now, passing over a high and very exposed spot, unbalanced by camera and binoculars round my neck, and wearing a wide brimmed sunhat, I was actually terrified that I would be blown over by a gusts of the (pleasantly warm) wind onto the hard stony ground. Very reluctantly I had to turn back and reach a more sheltered spot, where I sat for a while.
After a bit, I moved further towards the car park, and found an almost suitable boulder on which to sit. For a long while. I confess that I did get a little bored, but amused myself taking more photos. And a video.
I was on a mini peninsula at the side of a bay, the Baia d’Abra. The other side of the bay was a long way off, and it was impossible to make individual people out. But I suspected that some people sitting down way across above the multi-coloured cliff were a few of my companions, so I took a photo on maximum zoom, and enlarged it as much as I could in my camera. (I really was quite bored by now! There was nowhere to lie down and have a snooze, nor was it warm enough.) I could indeed identify people from our party. I assumed they were sitting to have their lunch (which I took to as a cue to have my own) but I learned later they had been birdwatching and had seen, among other things, canary and rock sparrow. Oh well, I had watched grasshoppers … and a rather elegant wooden tourist boat, the Bonita da Madeira, following the coastline of the bay. Together once more, we went back along the south coast towards Funchal, and stopped at Ponta da Garajau, for liquid refreshment and what was intended to be a further walk down a cliff path to find a particular plant. However, the authorities had roped it off as too dangerous. This did not stop our leader venturing just a few metres into it to collect this insect from a cactus. He then passed it to a volunteer who agreed to crush it in her palm. This was the cochineal insect, much prized as a very expensive trading item centuries ago, and which set me off singing to myself an extract from a madrigal by Thomas Weelkes (1575-1623), Thule, the period of cosmography. This includes the line, ‘The Andalusian merchant, that returns laden with cochineal and China dishes,…’.
Another delicious meal in a downtown Funchal restaurant, and the obligatory exercise afterwards (taxis were available for those who wished) ended the day.
susanpoozan said:
Sorry it was so windy but thanks for all the photographs especially the views.
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Musiewild said:
You’re welcome!
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tootlepedal said:
A pity that the wind spoiled your walk but you provided us with some good photographs all the same. I thought at first sight that you must have fallen and cut your hand and was relieved to find that it was only a beetle.
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Musiewild said:
Wow! That would have been a nasty gash! No, the hand was not even mine. I hope Olwen managed to wash the dye out soon.
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Olive Simpson said:
The colour of the pale blue flower towards the top of this set is just magical! And rather a dramatic contrast to the poor insect who met his end on your friend’s hand. Design fault there – they should have sorted out a way of being less valuable! But great pics of a beautiful island.
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Musiewild said:
Yes, that blue is delightful. At least we’re not still crushing little beasties to make our red food dye!
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maryh said:
Wonderful scenic views – sorry about the wind and long wait but you provided us with some excellent pictures and I enjoyed the video. What a surprise that that little insect provided such a rash of cochineal.
.
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Musiewild said:
I thought that the cochineal insect was no longer used for food colouring, but a quick internet check shows that I’m wrong – it is, a lot. But I’ve just checked the ‘red food colouring’ bottle in my kitchen cupboard, and found thankfully that its colour comes from beetroot. I must find a use for it some time. I haven’t opened it in years!
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Josh Gross | The Jaguar said:
Few things will spoil an outing faster than strong wind. Oh well, at least you were able to get outside.
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Musiewild said:
Certainly better than staying indoors!
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Josh Gross | The Jaguar said:
Indeed!
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Christine said:
Better safe than sorry, so it was wise to prefer to endure a few moments of slight boredom (wish I could do so sometimes!)
Very interesting cochineal experience !
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Musiewild said:
It was impossible for me to go on – I had no choice but to turn round.
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Christine said:
I forgot to add that your pictures show us the beauty of minor details, a great pleasure too!
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Musiewild said:
Thank you, Christine.
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