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Monday, 2nd January. We’re due in to Bergen at 14.45. Suitcases to be made available for handlers by 09.00, cabins vacated by 10.00. I was in Deck 8’s panoramic lounge by 09.30, and it filled quite quickly. I was too late to get a window seat.

I spent most of the time knitting, and was fascinated when this big rock came into view straight ahead. (Most passengers didn’t seem to notice it.)

On my tablet, I watched on Hurtigruten’s own tracker app. From this I could see that this large rock was in fact two large rocks.

On my phone, I followed on Google Maps. For much of the voyage this had been pretty inaccurate, often placing us on land by a few kilometres from where we were. GPS is less reliable towards the north because no satellite travels directly overhead. Thank goodness the ship’s navigation systems were more reliable than this!

Sometimes I watched on both.

Why was I watching so closely? Well, apart from the fact that I just like maps, like some others I was a little concerned that if we were late into Bergen it could mean missed flights. Mine was for 17.25. Some had a flight at 17.05. (To cut to the end of the story, the boat pulled in dead on time. Once through airport formalities, I had only 20 minutes in hand in the event, due to a couple of other hiccups. Whether those due on the 17.05 flight made it I don’t know. I had left my travel arrangements to Hurtigruten, London. Other passengers had anticipated problems and had booked a night’s accommodation in Bergen. Perhaps another time… )
Meanwhile, just enjoy the views, I told myself. It had been dark on the first evening as we sailed northwards through this scenery. I watched the sun rising, and, before we reached Bergen, start to fall.



It was time for a final turn round Deck 9, in the open air.




But for the cold, I could have stayed there for ever.

Picnic lunch from elements picked up at breakfast, though a meal was available in the restaurant from 11.30 to 13.00.

I’ve been home three weeks, and have so enjoyed reliving such a great trip as I’ve prepared these posts, sad to have come to their end. And I have a great longing, which started even on the boat, to repeat it at a time when the skies will be lighter for much longer, but while there is still a chance to see the Northern Lights. Spring? Or autumn? Nice dilemma. I’m inclining towards October 2024 …
PS Two articles on Norway which appeared in The Guardian recently:
One on the effect of climate change on the tundra https://www.theguardian.com/news/2022/jan/20/norway-arctic-circle-trees-sami-reindeer-global-heating?CMP=share_btn_link
and one on Norway’s soul-searching about its gas and oil wealth https://www.theguardian.com/world/2023/jan/01/battle-for-the-nations-soul-norway-faces-debate-about-gas-and-oil-wealth?CMP=share_btn_link
It’s an amazing journey, isn’t it? We did the northbound voyage in early November and were still able to enjoy sunrises at around 8AM and several hours of daylight. We also saw the aurora several times! We’d love to go back at a darker time of year, in the hopes of seeing more intense Northern lights. Did you see them a few times, since it was the darkest time of year?
All the best from Strasbourg, France
Stéphanie and Jérôme
Strafari
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Yes, we saw them several times, though I’ve since read that the very best times are September and March for some reason. I’m glad to have your endorsement for a late autumn return!
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At least the Norwegians did think about using the oil revenues for the common good before they got a bit out of hand. The UK government never let any such thought enter their head. As an inhabitant of a rich oil producing country with appalling infrastructure and acute poverty, I hold an undying grudge against the people responsible.
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I couldn’t agree more.
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Une pénible incertitude d’attente compensée par des paysages splendides.
Merci pour les articles. L’avance de 40 m par an des bouleaux rend le changement climatique tragiquement concret.
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Does ‘paysages’ include skies? I think so!
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Le ciel, la mer… Tout 🙂
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It must have been most enjoyable (as well as hard word) reliving your trip through all the photographs.
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Indeed it was, Mary!
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word=work
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Nothing is more beautiful than the sea in sunny weather!
Making flights on time can be very nerve-wracking. I’m glad you made your flight!
It seems like this was a very nice trip, overall. I hope you do get to go back 🙂
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Thanks Josh!
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